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	<title>Comments for SLR Nikon D50 Blog</title>
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	<description>Nikon D50 Reviews &#124; Nikon D50 Technical Info. &#124; Video Reviews</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Thu, 02 Sep 2010 10:55:59 -0500</lastBuildDate>
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		<title>Comment on How do I take better photos at night? (Nikon D50)? by Edwin</title>
		<link>http://www.slrnikond50blog.com/nikon-d50/how-do-i-take-better-photos-at-night-nikon-d50/comment-page-1#comment-3579</link>
		<dc:creator>Edwin</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 02 Sep 2010 10:55:59 +0000</pubDate>
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		<description>First, you need a tripod.

Second, your camera must be in Manual Mode so you can set shutter speed and f-stop.

Third, you&#039;ll need a cable release for exposures longer than 30 seconds. For long exposures your shutter setting will be on &quot;B&quot; which allows you to keep the shutter open as long as you want.

Suppose you want to photograph a city skyline in the distance after dark. Using my trusty FotoSharp (fotosharp.com) Day &amp; Night Exposure Guide, Scene # 14, we find:

ISO 100

f5.6 @ 15 seconds
f8 @ 30 seconds
f11 @ 60 seconds

ISO 200

f5.6 @ 8 seconds
f8 @ 15 seconds
f11 @ 30 seconds

ISO 400

f5.6 @ 4 seconds
f8 @ 8 seconds
f11 @ 15 seconds

Your best quality will be at ISO 100 @ f8 or f11 since lenses are optimized at between f5.6 and f11.

Experiment with the settings listed BUT change only ONE variable at a time. That avoids confusion.&lt;br&gt;&lt;b&gt;References : &lt;/b&gt;&lt;br&gt;</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>First, you need a tripod.</p>
<p>Second, your camera must be in Manual Mode so you can set shutter speed and f-stop.</p>
<p>Third, you&#8217;ll need a cable release for exposures longer than 30 seconds. For long exposures your shutter setting will be on &quot;B&quot; which allows you to keep the shutter open as long as you want.</p>
<p>Suppose you want to photograph a city skyline in the distance after dark. Using my trusty FotoSharp (fotosharp.com) Day &amp; Night Exposure Guide, Scene # 14, we find:</p>
<p>ISO 100</p>
<p>f5.6 @ 15 seconds<br />
f8 @ 30 seconds<br />
f11 @ 60 seconds</p>
<p>ISO 200</p>
<p>f5.6 @ 8 seconds<br />
f8 @ 15 seconds<br />
f11 @ 30 seconds</p>
<p>ISO 400</p>
<p>f5.6 @ 4 seconds<br />
f8 @ 8 seconds<br />
f11 @ 15 seconds</p>
<p>Your best quality will be at ISO 100 @ f8 or f11 since lenses are optimized at between f5.6 and f11.</p>
<p>Experiment with the settings listed BUT change only ONE variable at a time. That avoids confusion.<br /><b>References : </b></p>
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		<title>Comment on Looking for a good SLR digital ? by Jt C</title>
		<link>http://www.slrnikond50blog.com/camera-d50-digital-nikon-slr/looking-for-a-good-slr-digital/comment-page-1#comment-3570</link>
		<dc:creator>Jt C</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 02 Sep 2010 10:50:59 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.slrnikond50blog.com/camera-d50-digital-nikon-slr/looking-for-a-good-slr-digital#comment-3570</guid>
		<description>OK here is my short answer. The D40 will do everything a beginner to intermediate photographer needs at a great price. It comes with an 18-55 lens. It will let you use any other money to buy more accessories. And by the time you outgrow it cameras will have advanced to the point that most of what is on the market now would be obsolete. I bought a D300 last year and only had a it a few months when the D700 came out. The canon would also serve you well but I am a Nikon person so I suggest them. I have friends that are very happy with thier canon&#039;s and take great photos. You will have others that like Pentax and Olympus and they are not bad cameras but if they were in the same ballpark you would see many more professional photographers use them 

Now for the longer answer as you already have some experience I will be preaching to the choir on a good bit of this. 

I would say the Nikon D40 Its an entry level DSLR. A digital SLR will give you a much larger sensor than any point and shoot camera. Larger sensor = more light to each pixel = clearer, crisper photo with better color saturation. DSLR will also let you grow and take more control as you learn more and you can change lenses when you have a need to. The sensor on the olympus is smaller than on Nikon or Canon

I am a nikon person and have had nikons since the 70&#039;s I personally think the nikon D40 give you more for the dollar than any DSLR today. There are some that do more but you pay a good bit more. Do not let the lower megapixels concern you if you do not do very very large prints you will never notice the lower DSLR. My brother recently needs a DSLR for a class and I recommended the D40 to him So I would also say get the D40 not the D40X. The Nikon D40 does not have limited functions compared with other entry DSLR. Yes it has fewer funtioncas than a 1500 dollar camera body would. It is not a a cut down version its equal or above most any entry level DSLR.


There is a great article in this months Digital Photopro Magazine that is titled &quot;Megapixels how much is enough&quot; EVERYONE  looking at buying a new digital camera can profit by reading this article. Its here 
http://www.digitalphotopro.com/studio/megapixels-how-much-is-enough.html

I have a d300 and a d40 and when I am shooting for fun I grab the d40. Its weightless, a joy to use and gives good results

If you have a bit more money the D60 give you a number of things you want. It has newer firmware and image processors, designed for the 10 mp sensor. It has an &quot;Active Dust Reduction System with Airflow Control &quot;. Nikon not putting a system on the D40 to deal with dust is one of the biggest drawbacks I see to the D40 ( though I think its still a great camera for the money) If you change lenses dust will get in and the camera needs a system to deal with it. With the D60 you get a VR lens. That will help with low light situations ( they may offer that now with the D40 but originally it was not) . The D60 has Adaptive Dynamic Range. Nikon calls it &quot;Active D-Lighting,&quot; it lets you save some highlights that my otherwise be lost. It has a newer better metering system than the D40. So you can get the D40 not the D40 x and spend the other money on lenses or a flash 



Some people will want to make a big issue out of the fact that there are some nikon lenses that will not autofocus on these cameras. Right now there are &quot;only&quot; about 39 lenses that autofocus on these cameras. They cover the range of focal lengths. I doubt any photographer would be seriously limited with &quot;only&quot; this many lenses to choose from. If you want to manually focus you can more than double this and do so at a low cost. Manual focusing is easy and how we did things for decades before the advent of autofocus.

Cannon and Nikon chose to put the vibration reduction in the lens rather than the body. Somefolks put it in the camera and make of that. Yes that means you get stabilization only on lenses with that feature built in. In the body in theory it would work on every lens. But in fact image stbilization in the lens has proved to work faster and smoother with a lower impact on focus times than image stabilization in the body/ One problem with in body stabilization comes from the fact that the sensor would have to move different amounts for different focal lengths. A canon white paper says an in body system would have to move the sensor 1/4 inch to account for movement on a 300 mm lens. 

Now a comment on liveview. Have you ever tried to hold several pounds of digital camera and lens steady at arms length while you look at an LCD screen. It not at all the same as holding a few ounces of point and shoot camera steady in the same position. One of the things we preach to new photogrpahers is to learn to hold the camera properly so the body mechanics give you a steady shot. You can&#039;t really do that looking at the LCD. So liveview is really something that will have very limited applications in a DSLR. Usually only when its on a tripod. I have liveview on my D300 and have never used it. 

Nikon also has great service. I was just reading the other day on eyefetch in the Nikon forum where someone posted that they had dropped thier lens and broken it. It was not a fault of the company they messed up. The sent it to Nikon and Nikon could not fix it. Nikon offered them a brand new identical lens at half the price. They did not have to



In closing all major camera manufactures make good cameras get out and compare the features and how they feel in your hand. Go to places like kenRockwell.com and DPreview.com to compare them. Nikon and Canon have the largest market share and I personally think there is a very good reason they do. Not bashing other brands but photographers tend to be very very demanding folks and they then tend to be loyal to what has worked for them well and consistently. That is not a pavlovian response anymore than it is a pavlovian response in my work at the fire department when I trust the brands of turnout gear and airpacks that have worked for me time and time again. Sometimes even going beyond the published specs. People in ANY demanding profession gain loyalty and trust from thier experiences. And if the product did not perform it would not be favored for long.&lt;br&gt;&lt;b&gt;References : &lt;/b&gt;&lt;br&gt;</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>OK here is my short answer. The D40 will do everything a beginner to intermediate photographer needs at a great price. It comes with an 18-55 lens. It will let you use any other money to buy more accessories. And by the time you outgrow it cameras will have advanced to the point that most of what is on the market now would be obsolete. I bought a D300 last year and only had a it a few months when the D700 came out. The canon would also serve you well but I am a <a href="http://www.slrnikond50blog.com/amazon" style="color:#0033FF;text-decoration:underline;" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" onmouseover="self.status='SLR Nikon D50 Amazon.com';return true;" onmouseout="self.status=''">Nikon</a> person so I suggest them. I have friends that are very happy with thier canon&#8217;s and take great photos. You will have others that like Pentax and Olympus and they are not bad cameras but if they were in the same ballpark you would see many more professional photographers use them </p>
<p>Now for the longer answer as you already have some experience I will be preaching to the choir on a good bit of this. </p>
<p>I would say the Nikon D40 Its an entry level DSLR. A digital SLR will give you a much larger sensor than any point and shoot camera. Larger sensor = more light to each pixel = clearer, crisper photo with better color saturation. DSLR will also let you grow and take more control as you learn more and you can change lenses when you have a need to. The sensor on the olympus is smaller than on Nikon or Canon</p>
<p>I am a nikon person and have had nikons since the 70&#8217;s I personally think the nikon D40 give you more for the dollar than any DSLR today. There are some that do more but you pay a good bit more. Do not let the lower megapixels concern you if you do not do very very large prints you will never notice the lower DSLR. My brother recently needs a DSLR for a class and I recommended the D40 to him So I would also say get the D40 not the D40X. The Nikon D40 does not have limited functions compared with other entry DSLR. Yes it has fewer funtioncas than a 1500 dollar camera body would. It is not a a cut down version its equal or above most any entry level DSLR.</p>
<p>There is a great article in this months Digital Photopro Magazine that is titled &quot;Megapixels how much is enough&quot; EVERYONE  looking at buying a new digital camera can profit by reading this article. Its here<br />
<a href="http://www.digitalphotopro.com/studio/megapixels-how-much-is-enough.html" rel="nofollow">http://www.digitalphotopro.com/studio/megapixels-how-much-is-enough.html</a></p>
<p>I have a d300 and a d40 and when I am shooting for fun I grab the d40. Its weightless, a joy to use and gives good results</p>
<p>If you have a bit more money the D60 give you a number of things you want. It has newer firmware and image processors, designed for the 10 mp sensor. It has an &quot;Active Dust Reduction System with Airflow Control &quot;. Nikon not putting a system on the D40 to deal with dust is one of the biggest drawbacks I see to the D40 ( though I think its still a great camera for the money) If you change lenses dust will get in and the camera needs a system to deal with it. With the D60 you get a VR lens. That will help with low light situations ( they may offer that now with the D40 but originally it was not) . The D60 has Adaptive Dynamic Range. Nikon calls it &quot;Active D-Lighting,&quot; it lets you save some highlights that my otherwise be lost. It has a newer better metering system than the D40. So you can get the D40 not the D40 x and spend the other money on lenses or a flash </p>
<p>Some people will want to make a big issue out of the fact that there are some nikon lenses that will not autofocus on these cameras. Right now there are &quot;only&quot; about 39 lenses that autofocus on these cameras. They cover the range of focal lengths. I doubt any photographer would be seriously limited with &quot;only&quot; this many lenses to choose from. If you want to manually focus you can more than double this and do so at a low cost. Manual focusing is easy and how we did things for decades before the advent of autofocus.</p>
<p>Cannon and Nikon chose to put the vibration reduction in the lens rather than the body. Somefolks put it in the camera and make of that. Yes that means you get stabilization only on lenses with that feature built in. In the body in theory it would work on every lens. But in fact image stbilization in the lens has proved to work faster and smoother with a lower impact on focus times than image stabilization in the body/ One problem with in body stabilization comes from the fact that the sensor would have to move different amounts for different focal lengths. A canon white paper says an in body system would have to move the sensor 1/4 inch to account for movement on a 300 mm lens. </p>
<p>Now a comment on liveview. Have you ever tried to hold several pounds of digital camera and lens steady at arms length while you look at an LCD screen. It not at all the same as holding a few ounces of point and shoot camera steady in the same position. One of the things we preach to new photogrpahers is to learn to hold the camera properly so the body mechanics give you a steady shot. You can&#8217;t really do that looking at the LCD. So liveview is really something that will have very limited applications in a DSLR. Usually only when its on a tripod. I have liveview on my D300 and have never used it. </p>
<p>Nikon also has great service. I was just reading the other day on eyefetch in the Nikon forum where someone posted that they had dropped thier lens and broken it. It was not a fault of the company they messed up. The sent it to Nikon and Nikon could not fix it. Nikon offered them a brand new identical lens at half the price. They did not have to</p>
<p>In closing all major camera manufactures make good cameras get out and compare the features and how they feel in your hand. Go to places like kenRockwell.com and DPreview.com to compare them. Nikon and Canon have the largest market share and I personally think there is a very good reason they do. Not bashing other brands but photographers tend to be very very demanding folks and they then tend to be loyal to what has worked for them well and consistently. That is not a pavlovian response anymore than it is a pavlovian response in my work at the fire department when I trust the brands of turnout gear and airpacks that have worked for me time and time again. Sometimes even going beyond the published specs. People in ANY demanding profession gain loyalty and trust from thier experiences. And if the product did not perform it would not be favored for long.<br /><b>References : </b></p>
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		<title>Comment on How do I take better photos at night? (Nikon D50)? by victor98_2001</title>
		<link>http://www.slrnikond50blog.com/nikon-d50/how-do-i-take-better-photos-at-night-nikon-d50/comment-page-1#comment-3578</link>
		<dc:creator>victor98_2001</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 02 Sep 2010 10:31:59 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.slrnikond50blog.com/nikon-d50/how-do-i-take-better-photos-at-night-nikon-d50#comment-3578</guid>
		<description>Using &quot;Bulb (B)&quot; shutter speed,with tripod and get longer times like 30 seconds or 45 seconds or 60 seconds to capture images at night .You must try several shots for night photos.&lt;br&gt;&lt;b&gt;References : &lt;/b&gt;&lt;br&gt;</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Using &quot;Bulb (B)&quot; shutter speed,with tripod and get longer times like 30 seconds or 45 seconds or 60 seconds to capture images at night .You must try several shots for night photos.<br /><b>References : </b></p>
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		<title>Comment on Looking for a good SLR digital ? by MystiK Whyspers</title>
		<link>http://www.slrnikond50blog.com/camera-d50-digital-nikon-slr/looking-for-a-good-slr-digital/comment-page-1#comment-3569</link>
		<dc:creator>MystiK Whyspers</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 02 Sep 2010 10:01:59 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.slrnikond50blog.com/camera-d50-digital-nikon-slr/looking-for-a-good-slr-digital#comment-3569</guid>
		<description>Durability?... You aren&#039;t going in the wrong direction.

When they say you can drive a nail with a Nikon, they aren&#039;t kidding.

I have never had my Nikon fail, even after dropping it off a tripod onto asphalt.  The things are really durable.

I have however, received a fair amount of Canon bodies into the camera shop in need of repairs after they have been dropped... I can say they come in about 4:1 over other cameras but then they may be out there at that same ratio.  I can say Canon has an excellent customer support system.

Originally, you saw nothing but Nikons at sporting events then Canon took center stage but recently, it appears that the Canon shooters are coming back to the Nikons for some reason.&lt;br&gt;&lt;b&gt;References : &lt;/b&gt;&lt;br&gt;</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Durability?&#8230; You aren&#8217;t going in the wrong direction.</p>
<p>When they say you can drive a nail with a <a href="http://www.slrnikond50blog.com/amazon" style="color:#0033FF;text-decoration:underline;" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" onmouseover="self.status='SLR Nikon D50 Amazon.com';return true;" onmouseout="self.status=''">Nikon</a>, they aren&#8217;t kidding.</p>
<p>I have never had my Nikon fail, even after dropping it off a tripod onto asphalt.  The things are really durable.</p>
<p>I have however, received a fair amount of Canon bodies into the camera shop in need of repairs after they have been dropped&#8230; I can say they come in about 4:1 over other cameras but then they may be out there at that same ratio.  I can say Canon has an excellent customer support system.</p>
<p>Originally, you saw nothing but Nikons at sporting events then Canon took center stage but recently, it appears that the Canon shooters are coming back to the Nikons for some reason.<br /><b>References : </b></p>
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		<title>Comment on How do I take better photos at night? (Nikon D50)? by vienna2001</title>
		<link>http://www.slrnikond50blog.com/nikon-d50/how-do-i-take-better-photos-at-night-nikon-d50/comment-page-1#comment-3577</link>
		<dc:creator>vienna2001</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 02 Sep 2010 09:54:59 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.slrnikond50blog.com/nikon-d50/how-do-i-take-better-photos-at-night-nikon-d50#comment-3577</guid>
		<description>You can spend a few thousand more on a camera with advanced long-exposure noise reduction, low noise high ISO, image stabilization, and a built-in intergalactic gargoblaster.

Or 50 bucks for a tripod.

Up 2 U.&lt;br&gt;&lt;b&gt;References : &lt;/b&gt;&lt;br&gt;</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>You can spend a few thousand more on a camera with advanced long-exposure noise reduction, low noise high ISO, image stabilization, and a built-in intergalactic gargoblaster.</p>
<p>Or 50 bucks for a tripod.</p>
<p>Up 2 U.<br /><b>References : </b></p>
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		<title>Comment on How do you repair Nikon D50 rubber-thumb-grip if it is not glued to the camera anymore? by PG_13</title>
		<link>http://www.slrnikond50blog.com/nikon-d50-camera/how-do-you-repair-nikon-d50-rubber-thumb-grip-if-it-is-not-glued-to-the-camera-anymore/comment-page-1#comment-3573</link>
		<dc:creator>PG_13</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 02 Sep 2010 09:24:59 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.slrnikond50blog.com/nikon-d50-camera/how-do-you-repair-nikon-d50-rubber-thumb-grip-if-it-is-not-glued-to-the-camera-anymore#comment-3573</guid>
		<description>use devcon and choose clear appearance. stick in minute and guarantee with ROHS complaint.&lt;br&gt;&lt;b&gt;References : &lt;/b&gt;&lt;br&gt;</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>use devcon and choose clear appearance. stick in minute and guarantee with ROHS complaint.<br /><b>References : </b></p>
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		<title>Comment on Photography similar lenses to Nikon 70-200 2.8 and Nikon 17-35 2.8 ? by Beck F</title>
		<link>http://www.slrnikond50blog.com/nikon-d50-lenses/photography-similar-lenses-to-nikon-70-200-2-8-and-nikon-17-35-2-8/comment-page-1#comment-3581</link>
		<dc:creator>Beck F</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 02 Sep 2010 09:16:59 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.slrnikond50blog.com/nikon-d50-lenses/photography-similar-lenses-to-nikon-70-200-2-8-and-nikon-17-35-2-8#comment-3581</guid>
		<description>look at 3rd party lens makers - they generally make the same lenses for a fraction of the cost.  The quality of the lens probably wont be quite as good as the Nikon versions, but based on the price difference it will be worth it.
I know that Sigma and Tamron both make their own versions of the 70-200 f2.8, and i&#039;m sure that they make lenses similar to the 17-35 too.&lt;br&gt;&lt;b&gt;References : &lt;/b&gt;&lt;br&gt;http://www.dpreview.com/lensreviews/sigma_70-200_2p8_n15/page2.asp</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>look at 3rd party lens makers &#8211; they generally make the same lenses for a fraction of the cost.  The quality of the lens probably wont be quite as good as the Nikon versions, but based on the price difference it will be worth it.<br />
I know that Sigma and Tamron both make their own versions of the 70-200 f2.8, and i&#8217;m sure that they make lenses similar to the 17-35 too.<br /><b>References : </b><br /><a href="http://www.dpreview.com/lensreviews/sigma_70-200_2p8_n15/page2.asp" rel="nofollow">http://www.dpreview.com/lensreviews/sigma_70-200_2p8_n15/page2.asp</a></p>
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		<title>Comment on Looking for a good SLR digital ? by Missy Tx</title>
		<link>http://www.slrnikond50blog.com/camera-d50-digital-nikon-slr/looking-for-a-good-slr-digital/comment-page-1#comment-3568</link>
		<dc:creator>Missy Tx</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 02 Sep 2010 09:14:59 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.slrnikond50blog.com/camera-d50-digital-nikon-slr/looking-for-a-good-slr-digital#comment-3568</guid>
		<description>I have the Nikon D40 and absolutely love it! If price isn&#039;t an issue, I would probably go with the new D90. Can&#039;t go wrong with a Nikon. The autofocusing is AMAZING!  I don&#039;t find it cumbersome at all to carry around. And they have a huge selection of lenses available for the Nikons. Some people really like the Canon line of DSLR&#039;s. I don&#039;t know much about them since I don&#039;t have one. &lt;br&gt;&lt;b&gt;References : &lt;/b&gt;&lt;br&gt;</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I have the Nikon D40 and absolutely love it! If price isn&#8217;t an issue, I would probably go with the new D90. Can&#8217;t go wrong with a Nikon. The autofocusing is AMAZING!  I don&#8217;t find it cumbersome at all to carry around. And they have a huge selection of lenses available for the Nikons. Some people really like the Canon line of DSLR&#8217;s. I don&#8217;t know much about them since I don&#8217;t have one. <br /><b>References : </b></p>
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		<title>Comment on How do I take better photos at night? (Nikon D50)? by Pooky</title>
		<link>http://www.slrnikond50blog.com/nikon-d50/how-do-i-take-better-photos-at-night-nikon-d50/comment-page-1#comment-3576</link>
		<dc:creator>Pooky</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 02 Sep 2010 09:09:59 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.slrnikond50blog.com/nikon-d50/how-do-i-take-better-photos-at-night-nikon-d50#comment-3576</guid>
		<description>Both answer are correct :-) but I&#039;d like to show you these. 

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c317/wtin/0c9c2751.jpg

Griffith Park Observatory, November 2006, freezing cold at night. :-(

Canon 5D, Canon 16-35 mm f 2.8 L and Canon 100 mm f 2.8 Macro. 

The camera set the speed shutter at 10 seconds. It was waaaay overexposed. So I vetoed it, and put it in manual mode, and set it at 1.5 second instead, and I thought it looked better. 

Absolutely you need a tripod. I forgot my cable release--so I put it on a self timer. Other people standing near me were taking photos with flash (which didn&#039;t work really).

Hope this gives you some idea. 

ISO was at 500.&lt;br&gt;&lt;b&gt;References : &lt;/b&gt;&lt;br&gt;</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Both answer are correct <img src='http://www.slrnikond50blog.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif' alt=':-)' class='wp-smiley' />  but I&#8217;d like to show you these. </p>
<p><a href="http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c317/wtin/0c9c2751.jpg" rel="nofollow">http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c317/wtin/0c9c2751.jpg</a></p>
<p>Griffith Park Observatory, November 2006, freezing cold at night. <img src='http://www.slrnikond50blog.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_sad.gif' alt=':-(' class='wp-smiley' /> </p>
<p>Canon 5D, Canon 16-35 mm f 2.8 L and Canon 100 mm f 2.8 Macro. </p>
<p>The camera set the speed shutter at 10 seconds. It was waaaay overexposed. So I vetoed it, and put it in manual mode, and set it at 1.5 second instead, and I thought it looked better. </p>
<p>Absolutely you need a tripod. I forgot my cable release&#8211;so I put it on a self timer. Other people standing near me were taking photos with flash (which didn&#8217;t work really).</p>
<p>Hope this gives you some idea. </p>
<p>ISO was at 500.<br /><b>References : </b></p>
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		<title>Comment on Is there a direct process for making color transparencies from a D-SLR camera? by techyphilosopher2</title>
		<link>http://www.slrnikond50blog.com/slr-nikon-d50/is-there-a-direct-process-for-making-color-transparencies-from-a-d-slr-camera/comment-page-1#comment-3566</link>
		<dc:creator>techyphilosopher2</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 02 Sep 2010 08:49:59 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.slrnikond50blog.com/slr-nikon-d50/is-there-a-direct-process-for-making-color-transparencies-from-a-d-slr-camera#comment-3566</guid>
		<description>I&#039;m not sure why your friend would want to make transparencies from digital images.  She would skip the cost, expense, and time of the transfer steps,  _AND_ get far better quality images in terms of sharpness, by taking taking the photos directly using slide film in a regular film camera.

If she _REALLY_ wants to have slides made from digital picture files, find a photo lab in your area that deals with professional photographers.  I&#039;ve had to go this route once.  What they&#039;ll most likely do (what they did with my work) is make a large paper print from the digital file, then use take a picture of that using slide film. 

I&#039;ve tried making slides using overhead transparency sheets in my printer.  Even using the highest quality print dpi, the results were useless... 

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If she needs to make a &quot;slide show&quot; presentation to a group meeting, she could always store the images digitally on a CD in a PowerPoint presentation - most meeting places have digital projectors these days....&lt;br&gt;&lt;b&gt;References : &lt;/b&gt;&lt;br&gt;</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I&#8217;m not sure why your friend would want to make transparencies from digital images.  She would skip the cost, expense, and time of the transfer steps,  _AND_ get far better quality images in terms of sharpness, by taking taking the photos directly using slide film in a regular film camera.</p>
<p>If she _REALLY_ wants to have slides made from digital picture files, find a photo lab in your area that deals with professional photographers.  I&#8217;ve had to go this route once.  What they&#8217;ll most likely do (what they did with my work) is make a large paper print from the digital file, then use take a picture of that using slide film. </p>
<p>I&#8217;ve tried making slides using overhead transparency sheets in my printer.  Even using the highest quality print dpi, the results were useless&#8230; </p>
<p>&#8212;</p>
<p>If she needs to make a &quot;slide show&quot; presentation to a group meeting, she could always store the images digitally on a CD in a PowerPoint presentation &#8211; most meeting places have digital projectors these days&#8230;.<br /><b>References : </b></p>
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